It’s pretty hard to miss a Mimolette. Among the pale, buttery hues of other cheeses, it stands out with a burst of fissured fire-opal orange in a pock-marked globe that looks like it’s been rolled in Mars dust, looking for all the world like someone has sliced open a particularly exotic rock.
A fresh, cow’s milk cheese, Mimolette’s peculiar appearance can be traced back to the war that broke out between France and Holland in the late 1600s, resulting in perilously low supplies of the popular Dutch cheese, Edam. As we know, French armies march on cheese — Camembert owes much of its fame to its distribution to France’s soldiers during World War I — and so the cheesemakers of Lille were pressed into creating their own version. However, in order to distinguish this new creation from the Dutch apostates’ pale edition, annatto seeds were recruited to add the characteristic orange colour. Mimolette now ranks among the few cheeses to which colour is added for the sake of the colour alone, alongside Gloucester, Cheshire and Edam.
When still young, Mimolette is mild and pretty non-distinctive. But as it matures, tiny cheese mites are allowed to burrow into the rind, creating microscopic holes that promote ripening. As a result, the colour deepens and a rich complexity of sharp and sweet caramel, fruit and nut flavours develops. In other words, deliciousness. Like Parmesan, Mimolette is packed with that most coveted of all flavours, umami, which might account for why it has come to the attention of so many Japanese chefs, who like to pair it with umami-rich sake and miso.
Such a powerful blend of striking good looks and gorgeous flavours makes Mimolette a perfect addition to any cheese board. Add a glass of a lighter red or dessert wine, old ale or even a stout, and you have a recipe for true happiness.
If you want to explore Mimolette’s potentials even further, then there’s this recipe for Michel Roux’s Mimolette Sablé biscuits, which are simple to make and beautiful served with an aperitif.
Mimolette Sablés
(makes 24)
250g plain flour
200g unsalted butter, cut into small dice
250g Mimolette, grated
Egg-wash (1 medium egg mixed with 1 tsp milk)
12 blanched almonds cut in half lengthways
Put the flour into a large bowl and using just your fingertips rub in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add the grated cheese and mix well, without overworking, until the mixture is well combined and uniform.
On a large sheet of baking parchment, roll the sablé dough out to a square, about 7mm thick, then cover with cling film and place in the fridge to rest for about 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas 4.
Using a sharp knife, cut the sablé dough into rectangles, about 2.5 x 5cm. Using a palette knife, lift the rectangles onto a baking sheet, leaving space in between them. Brush the tops of the biscuits with egg-wash, then place an almond half in the centre of each, pressing it in very lightly. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes or until the sablés take on a lightly golden colour. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.
You’ll find a beautifully matured Mimolette At Khéma, bursting with vivid colour and flavour.
